Saturday 24 December 2011

Spaghetti Carbonara for Christmas Eve



For years I have had this for supper on Christmas Eve. I think something relatively simple before the feasting begins is fitting, though it does get a nod towards the festive season that won’t sit well with purists. I’ve been out with a few American boys, the last being a Bostonian, who usually insist that the pasta must be spaghetti. If making this on my own, I’ll usually plump for tagliatelli instead.

Shopping takes its toll. Cooking for one day doesn’t usually seem to involve quite as much as it does at Christmas. Still, you’re happy with his Christmas present and he’s looking pretty pleased with himself so it’s time to start feeding him up. This serves 2 – not dinner party food, just for you and him. 

300g Spaghetti
2 tsp Olive oil
190g smoked Lardons
Big handful sliced chestnut mushrooms
4 tbsp Noily Prat (or white wine)
4 egg yolks
50 ml double cream
6 tbsp grated Parmesan
Black pepper & fresh nutmeg
2 heaped tbsp. butter
Finely chopped Parsley

I have a CD of German Christmas music from the 1950’s, but really, any American 1950’s music would br good. Doris Day would be ideal. At a pinch, the soundtrack to The Sound of Music. A certain amount of kitsch is required to stop you trying to turn this into something gourmet. Your boy wants feeding. He’s not fussed about garnish.

A note on the eggs - free range generally means stuck in a cramped shed, rather than stuck in a cage - which is a bit better, obviously. Please look for Organic Free Range. They don't cost that much more. The eggs in this recipe are barely cooked and need to be the best. You love your guy - do the best for him.

Put the water on to boil for the spaghetti. It should be very salty. In a large saute pan, cook the Lardons until they are crisp and golden. Don't trim the fat off - it's still feast time! Usually I don’t go for smoked, finding it too salty, but here it cuts through the creamy sauce wonderfully. Drain and reserve, and then soften the mushrooms in the same pan, adding more oil if needed. They will pick up some bacon flavour. He will no doubt wander in, smelling the bacon cooking,and in hope of nibbling the odd piece. Don’t let him – you need all of it. Resist those pleading eyes and remind him of all the good things on TV he’s missing.

Add the vermouth to the mushrooms and bubble it for a few minutes, scraping the bits from the bottom of the pan. In the unlikely event he is watching you do this, explain it is called deglazing. Put the pan aside while the pasta finishes cooking.

In a bowl beat together, the egg yolks, the parmesan, cream, pepper and some grated nutmeg. When it’s combined add the bacon.

When the pasta is done, put the mushroom/vermouth pan back on the heat and add the butter. Drain the pasta and add it to the sauté pan and toss gently. Take it off the heat and add the egg mixture. Turn the pasta into it until covered with the carbonara. Don’t put it back on the heat unless you’re curious to try spaghetti with scrambled eggs. When all is coated, plate up and sprinkle parsley on top. Enjoy with a glass or three of Chilean Chardonnay.

This is comfort food and he really won’t appreciate how special this is. Never mind. You love him, and being under-appreciated from time to time is part of how you show it.

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