“Presiding over an establishment like this makes sad havoc with the features, my dear Miss Pecksniffs.” said Mrs Todgers. “The gravy alone is enough to add twenty years to one’s age, I do assure you…..The anxiety of that one item, my dears, keeps the mind continually on the stretch. There is no such passion in human nature as the passion for gravy among commercial gentlemen. It’s nothing to say a joint won’t yield - a whole animal wouldn’t yield – the amount of gravy they expect each day at dinner. And what I have undergone in consequence”, cried Mrs Todgers raising her eyes and shaking her head, “Nobody would believe!”
So gravy then, but something special for the season. The trouble with gravy is that the decent commercial brands are pretty good, and all too easy, so I have chosen something so special that I hope you will be tempted. This is from Hawksmoor, my all-time favourite restaurant.
50g chilled butter
4 banana shallots peeled & finely chopped
200ml Malmsey or other sweet Madeira
1 litre beef stock
1 tsp HP Sauce
50g bone marrow diced
Sea salt & black pepper
Heat half the butter in a small pan and add the shallot, cooking over a slow heat until soft. Add the Madeira, bring to the boil and simmer 5 minutes or until reduced by half.
In a medium sized saucepan bring the beef stock to the boil, add in the shallots and Madeira and keep simmering. Whisk in the remaining butter and HP sauce and add the bone marrow. Simmer for 2-3 minutes to cook the marrow and give the gravy a rich unctuous consistency. Season to taste.
They suggest serving in a gravy boat and I think it deserves that much!
Hawksmoor’s stock recipe includes 500g beef bones, 500g Oxtail, 500g beef shin and a pig’s trotter as well as the usual vegetables and herbs. Wonder if I can get a table before Christmas and celebrate the answer to all Mrs Todgers’ problems!
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