I’ve been wanting to make this for the boy for ages. It
looks so elegant. It’s like a terrine, except the ham is in pieces, rather than
minced. It’s traditionally made in France for Easter, but better late than
never.
1kg really decent ham
1 onion
4 cloves
2 pigs trotters
2 carrots
1 leek
1 celery stick
125g parsley leaves, finely chopped, stalks reserved
1 bay leaf
2 fresh thyme sprigs
1 bottle chardonnay, preferably French
3 shallots, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic. Finely chopped
Black pepper
The boy is out and I’m deliberately making this while he
isn’t home. He will love it but I don’t want him to see me putting in the pigs’
trotters. They’re easy to find these days. Our supermarket has them and they
are unbelievably cheap.
Cover the ham in water, in a deep casserole dish and cook for 30 minutes. Drain it and rinse
it. This will get excess salt out. I’m
thinking Verdi’s Falstaff will bring the right amount of happy heartedness to
this dish, so on the CD Player it goes. Put the ham back in the casserole and
add the trotters, carrots, leek, celery, parsley stalks, thyme, bay and wine.
Season well.
Simmer for up to two hours, until the meat is very tender.
Remove the ham and cut it into large pieces, about finger sized. Bring the
stock back up to the boil and reduce it down to just over half a litre. Strain
it and let it cool. This is where the magic happens, as it starts to become
jelly. Mix the shallots, garlic and parsley in a bowl. The finer it’s chopped,
the better.
I was about to throw the pigs trotters out, but the boy’s
cat has been waiting patiently and is now purring majestically. He wins. I
think only a cat could navigate all those bones. He’s in heaven. The boy
doesn’t notice that his cat isn’t interested in his dinner when the time comes.
It’s our secret.
In an oiled loaf tin, place a layer of ham, followed by the
shallot and parsley mix. Add some of the carrot from the ham’s cooking water,
finely diced, Layer it up. Ham/Parsley mix/Ham/Parsley mix.
Pour over the cooled stock. Refrigerate for 48 hours so the
ham is suspended in parsley-green gelatine. The boy will be amazed something so elegant
can be cooked at home. Its white and green layers do look good. Cut into thick
slices with a very sharp knife. Traditionally this would be served with a
mustard vinaigrette spooned over. This
is how we’re having it, along with a radish salad and some crusty French bread and Breton butter. He
doesn’t seem curious about how the jelly was made. Just as well, as I really
don’t want to tell him about the trotters.
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