This is adapted from a recipe by Anna Thomas, the great
American food writer. The original recipe would feed about 10 people and so the
time it would take to cook down all those onions would take about an hour. The
boy reckons he’s hungry enough to eat all that but we’re not putting him to the
test!
1 large onion
1 head of fennel
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp butter
5 kalamata olives sliced finely
A splash of white wine
Freshly ground black pepper
4 thick slices of Ciabatta or sourdough.
Obviously you can scale this back up (Anna starts with 4-5
each of onions and fennel). I am resisting the boy’s efforts to persuade me to
as this is a starter. 2 slices each! Yet again, it's pronounced broosketta not brooshetta.
Quarter the onions and slice them thickly. Trim the fennel
and slice to about the same size as the onions. This is the topping so we don’t
want them to melt down to nothing. Put the butter and oil in a heavy pan and
sauté the onions and fennel until they are soft and light brown. The trick is
to do this very slowly so they don’t crisp up and burn. As we’re doing fewer
than Anna this shouldn’t take an hour but you’ll need something to listen to.
I’m suggesting Maria Callas in a live recording of Cherubini’s Medea – Italian
and dramatic, which is what we’re looking for. Do stir from time to time to stop
anything sticking and burning.
Once the veg are nice and soft add the wine and stir until
it is all absorbed. Add the Kalamata olives – these are the black wrinkly ones
which have a much deeper flavour than the usual black bottled olives. Add salt
and pepper, stir and check the seasoning. I always get the boy to do this as he
has a really good palate. By now Medea is embracing her children for the last
time.
Toast the bread – you’re meant to do this on a griddle pan
but it always fills the kitchen with smoke. I use the toaster but only get it
lightly golden. Anna mentions the oven or over hot coals. We don’t have hot
coals in our kitchen, but we do have a toaster. Top the toast with the veg
(obviously). Anna makes a really good recommendation of adding a shaving or two
of parmesan. She also suggests that this would go really well with a good red
wine. However, as we have opened a bottle of white to add a splash to the pan,
we are not going to be doing that. But thanks anyway Anna – this is a great
recipe. The boy still thinks we should have scaled it up.
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