Wednesday 4 January 2012

Two North African Winter Salads


These two salads go very well together, one spicy/creamy, the other chalky/ sharp. It takes you in four directions at once and I think you can't ask much more of a supper than that. Please try this. Winter salads are so often a weak compromise. These two really aren't. Served together they will make a dinner, served with flatbreads and perhaps some olives.

Macaroni & Yoghurt Salad

This is Libyan. It’s time we saw Libya anew. If we can start to think of it as home to this delicious dish, rather than all the other things we associate it with, we'll have made the best possible start to 2012.

200g Macaroni
20g Pine nuts
40g unsalted butter
200g Greek yoghurt
1 clove garlic, crushed
½ tsp Baharat
1 tsp olive oil
1 medium bunch coriander
½ tsp chilli flakes

Baharat is a North African spice mix, which, unhelpfully, just means “spice”. To make, combine 2tbsp each: ground cumin, paprika and black pepper. Plus 1tbsp ground coriander and a tsp each of nutmeg and cinnamon with 1/2 tsp of cardamom. You’re good to go. Cook the pasta and lightly brown the pine nuts in the butter. Mix the yoghurt with the Baharat. When the pasta is done, freshen it up in cold water and toss with some oil. Mix it with the yoghurt and chopped coriander. The yoghurt may well need thinning down with a tablespoon of water. Sprinkle with the pine nuts, pouring on the butter they were cooked in and dust with the chilli flakes.

Feta, Chicory & Orange Salad

The freshness will offset the macaroni and yoghurt nicely. You’re getting two Winter salads in one meal and they will both be transporting.

2 Oranges
3 heads chicory, leaves separated
1 small bunch flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
1 tbsp fresh oregano leaves (if you can find them)
1 small red onion, very thinly sliced
100g Feta cheese
150g Walnut halves
50g Black olives
4 tbs olive oil
1 tbsp red wine vinegar

Find a Greek grocer. Your Feta should come in blocks, from a plastic bucket full of brine, and the olives should be Kalamata- probably oily and wrinkled. You’re not looking for cheese from a plastic packet nor tasteless olives from a jar of brine. Your guy will probably be mortified, used as he is to shopping in Sainsbury’s. The thought of having to actually talk to the people you’re buying food from will be alien to him. Let him skulk in the back of the shop.

When home, and he’s over his embarrassment, whisk together the oil and vinegar with a decent grind of salt and pepper.

Peel the oranges, removing all of the pith – a serrated knife will help. Slice the oranges into 1cm slices. Doing all of this over the serving bowl will help you keep all of the juice. Gently toss in the oregano, chicory, onion and parsley. Add the dressing and crumble the Feta over the top. Sprinkle the olives and walnuts over.

If your boy looks hungry (when does he not?) serve with warm Pitta bread. Salads are not just for Summer and these two suit each other well through being completely different. He can’t say he isn’t getting plenty of variety. Creamy and sharp. Two words that you use to describe him. Remind him of this.

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