Monday 9 January 2012

Parsnip Dumplings in Broth


He will actually like this (despite the fact it doesn’t contain half an Ox), as it’s delicate and sophisticated. However you only have yourself to blame if he’s hungry again before bedtime. The answer is to have this early and keep a stack of muffins to toast later. It’s well worth making while parsnips are turning up regularly in the veg box. Another stolen recipe – Yotam Ottolenghi’s this time.

For the broth
2 tbsp olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and cut into batons
4 sticks celery, cut into chunks
5 garlic cloves, peeled
1 onion, quartered
½ Celeriac, peeled
3 sprigs thyme
2 small bunches flat leaf parsley
10 peppercorns
2 bay leaves
Handful frozen peas

For the dumplings
200g floury potatoes, peeled and diced
200g parsnips, peeled and diced
1 garlic clove, peeled
30g butter
60g self raising flour
50g semolina
1 egg

We’re making the broth first. Vivaldi’s concertos for mandolin go on, full blast. Bugger the neighbours!  Sauté all the veg, except the peas. Add the herbs, peppercorns and bay. The thyme and bay come from just outside the kitchen  door. The bay tree needs re-potting – it gets blown over in the slightest wind. The boy considers picking the bay tree up as much a part of going out as locking the front door. The thyme is okay – getting woody, which means it grows much more slowly but has a better flavour.

Cover with cold water and simmer slowly for 2 hours. This is enough to get you through both the comedy hour and crime & thrillers hour on Radio 4 Extra. Or better, the whole of Jonathan Harker’s Journal, in Dracula, as part of your new pledge to read to each other. Skim occasionally and add a cup or two more water if it needs it.

Strain through a fine sieve and set aside. It will be a bright, golden colour. Keep back some of the carrot batons. Stick with Vivaldi, but change to his Gloria. The music should be as uplifting as the broth.

Boil the potatoes, parsnips and garlic in salty water until completely soft. Drain very well and then sauté in butter, which will remove any moisture. Mash in a bowl, adding the flour, semolina, and egg. Season and chill in the fridge so it firms up.

Nearly there – another pan of salty water up to the boil and start reheating the broth, adding the reserved carrot batons back in. Add the peas and give them a couple of minutes.

When the water pan is boiling, add the dumplings. It’s sticky so a couple of teaspoons will help. When they rise to the surface, add them to the broth. Garnish with finely chopped parsley.
Gloria! Gloria! In Excelcis Deo!

Perfect for a chilly afternoon. It’s delicate, rather than filling and so won’t keep him going all night. It is very tasty though so a second bowlful later might well do the trick. That and another chapter of Dracula while he snuggles under the throw on the sofa.

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