Bless him. He still likes an egg with soldiers, though to
preserve his dignity we don’t call it that. He has it with strong coffee
anyway. This is my version of a Marrakesh egg and tomato dish – there’s
something not quite grown up about this but it’s warming and filling and your guy
will love it for his supper. A good pot
of strong Yorkshire tea served afterwards will ensure he’s as contented as you
could hope for.
2 cans good quality tomatoes
2 tbsp olive oil
4 spring onions, sliced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
½ tsp cumin powder
¼ tsp cayenne (or a little more. Yes, go on)
4 large organic free range eggs
3 tbsp roughly chopped coriander
Salt & Pepper
Sourdough bread for toast - plenty
I feel I’ve exhausted the subject of canned tomatoes. You
know I like Cirio brand. Drain in a
shallow bowl and then quarter them lengthways. Save the liquid in case you need
it. Quartering the tomatoes will release a little bit more juice. There’s also
no point in buying eggs that aren’t Organic free-range – for flavour’s sake as
well as conscience. The best tomatoes and the best eggs will probably cost you
less than £3 combined and surely you love him that much. There are better
things to stint on.
Music choice must be Faudel. He’s young, French, of North
African descent, and very handsome. There’s a live CD called 1,2,3 Soleils that features him singing Aicha with Khaled, who originally had a
hit with the song. Khaled is middle aged and fat now, with a dodgy moustache
but he’s clearly still Faudel’s music hero. When they sing together it is
nothing short of magic. It will uplift your cooking, your soul, everything.
In a frying pan, gently fry the spring onions in the oil,
adding the garlic and cumin when it starts to soften. Then pour in the
tomatoes, cayenne and salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes. I save the juice
from the tomatoes in case it dries out too much. Drop a whole egg into each
quarter of the pan- they will cook on top of the tomatoes, so ruffle out the
whites with a fork so they spread thinly. Bubble for a couple of minutes or so
until the eggs are as he likes them. If the pan is hot you’ll soon get set
whites with runny yolks. Another grind of salt & pepper probably wouldn’t
hurt. (“Aicha, Aicha, ecoute- moi/ Aicha,
Aicha t’en vas pas…” It’s such a cool song.)
Toast plenty of sourdough bread and butter it. Chuck the coriander
on top of the tomatoes and eggs and take the pan off the heat. Plate up,
serving the toast on the side. Resist cutting it into soldiers. He can do that
himself if he wants to.
Make a pot of strong tea. Having feasted, relax on the sofa
with him in your arms and the strangely named 1,2,3 Soleils CD playing.
The third soleil is Rachid Taha, by the way. Your job’s nearly done. Note to
yourself whether the balance of cumin and cayenne is absolutely right. You
might adjust it next time. He would like there to be a next time. Rub the fuzz
on his belly.
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