Sunday, 17 June 2012

Carolina Style Barbecue Sauce


We will have lots of leftover pork from yesterday (See Kentucky Pork and Georgia Salsa) and so, yes, the rest will make sandwiches. I’m going to do my best not to make this a compromise as pulled pork is just so good. This barbecue sauce will top the pork in French baguettes, along with fresh tomatoes, coleslaw and coriander leaves.

500ml distilled malt vinegar
50ml Heinz tomato ketchup
1tbsp American hot sauce
100g sugar
¼ tsp salt
½ tbsp chilli flakes
½ tsp black pepper

So simple. Boil everything together until it thickens slightly, and set aside. We’re using Crystal hot sauce, but any smooth American brand would do.

Taste and adjust with any of the ingredients that seem out of balance.

To make the baguette, put coleslaw on the bottom and top with tomato and then coriander leaves. Then the pork, adding crunchy crackling bits as you go. Top with this sauce and then spread the top of the bread with mayonnaise. Wrap in cling film and then hand it to him as he dashes out the door. He’ll barely notice what it is when you give it to him but wait until he gets home to see how much he liked it.

This sauce would be great with barbecued ribs.

Kentucky Pork & Georgia Salsa


The boy has the Sunday papers spread all over the living room, and is cutting out reviews of books he wants to read. He has Handel’s Jephtha on quite loud. Hope the guys in the upstairs flat like Handel, though it is rather good. He has a while to wait for lunch so I’ve made him breakfast and he’s enjoying a strong Bloody Mary with his paper blizzard.

1.5kg belly pork, bones in, skin scored
200ml Jack Daniels
250ml chicken or pork stock
1tsp thyme (fresh or dried)

 Peach Salsa
4 ripe peaches
1 red chilli
6 tomatoes
Juice of 2 limes
Olive oil
Handful coriander leaves

Get the oven to 220/Gas7 and the Radio to Radio 4. Place the pork in a deep roasting tin and massage the thyme, salt and pepper into it. Try to get it into the score lines if you can.

Roast for 30 minutes, then remove and turn the heat down to 160/Gas 3. Pour 150ml water and the Jack Daniels into the bottom of the tin, and put it back into the oven.  You have an hour and 40 minutes to spend with the boy.  He fancies a board game.

Remove the pork from the roasting tin, and wrap it in foil to rest. Put the roasting tin on the hob, and bring the juices to the boil, pouring in the stock. Scrape the bits from the bottom of the tin and let it reduce to a gravy thickness. Taste and season with salt and pepper. It may need another drop of JD. When it’s ready pour into a jug for serving . Pour in any extra juices from the resting pork parcel.

The boy is bored and wants to eat now. He’s going to make the salsa – partly to distract him and partly so it’s ready sooner.

Get him to halve and stone the peaches, and then dice them. With luck you’ll end up with a mix of ripe and slightly firm.  Place in a bowl, and add the seeded, very finely chopped chilli. Check he’s done it finely enough. You want flecks, not slices. Chop the tomatoes and them along with the lime juice, salt and pepper and a slug of olive oil. Get him to mix well and taste. Scatter roughly chopped coriander on top and get him to give it one last turn.

The pork is ready to pull apart, with crunchy crackling. It’s meant to be a meal to pick at, but knowing the boy I have some lovely soft sourdough bread for him to make sandwiches as he goes.




Thursday, 14 June 2012

Texas Barbecue Sauce #2


The boy loves barbeques and we have been invited to one next week. Unfortunately for him it’s connected to my work so he knows he will have to be on his best behaviour. And he can be charm itself when he decides to turn it on. It will be a huge affair so we are all bringing our own meat to grill. I’m bringing this barbeque sauce as well. It isn’t the 2nd sauce I’ve posted – the original recipe from Texas on the Halfshell calls it that.

3 cloves garlic, crushed
5 medium onions, finely chopped
1 cup oil
2 small bottles of ketchup
1/3 cup Louisiana hot sauce
2/3 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 cups vinegar
A slug of sherry

I don’t know how small the bottles of ketchup need to be, or whether one big one would be better. I’m just going for two of the small ones in the supermarket. The hot sauce needs to be the smooth American kind, like Crystal or Franks.

Put a little of the oil in a pan and brown the onions slowly. Add the garlic half way through. Add the ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, vinegar and the rest of the oil. Cook over a low heat until it thickens nicely.

Get the boy to taste it – I suspect it might benefit from a tablespoon or two of brown sugar. He has a really good sense for these things and he likes being asked for his expertise.

Once it’s done, cool it down and add the sherry. The original recipe says “a fifth of sherry” and Google suggests this is a whole bottle, which can’t be right – especially as it’s optional. So use your own judgement, bearing in mind you want it to stay nice and thick. I think a regular shot will do.

Pour into a mason jar and keep in the fridge.

The boy will want to wear a crisp white shirt at the barbecue and it will lead to trouble.

Tuesday, 12 June 2012

Muffuletta


We have established by now that the boy loves sandwiches. Muffuletta might be the best thing you have ever given him. It comes from New Orleans so a jazz soundtrack while you are making it will only improve the flavour. I’m going for Sonny Rollins’ Saxophone Colossus.

1 small round white crusty loaf
1 ball mozzarella, sliced
8 slices Italian salami
6 slices emmental
8 slices cooked ham

Olive salad
100g green olives with pimento, sliced
½ stick celery, sliced
1 shallot, finely chopped
1tbsp capers
3 basil leaves
1 clove garlic, chopped
3tbsp olive oil
1tbsp red wine vinegar
Salt & pepper

Start with the olive salad. Mix everything in a bowl and let it come together while you get into the calypso groove of St Thomas. You want to have this outside. We’re going to walk up to Alexandra Palace and take in the great view of North London. I’m laying out his favourite jeans and a white granddad T-shirt to save time when he wakes up.

Cut the loaf in half horizontally and scoop out some of the bread so you have a hollow. Line the bottom with some olive salad and then layer up some mozzarella, salami and ham. I think the salami should be picante, or at least very garlicky to contrast with the ham. Finish with olive salad at the top. If you’ve got the proportions right the lid will barely fit on. Wrap the loaf in foil and then weigh it down. I use tins of tomatoes as weights.

It will need an hour to compress. When I hear the boy hit the shower I will pack the picnic basket. We need a knife to split the muffulatta into 4 thick wedges. His wedge will be bigger than mine. We’re also having small vine tomatoes, some smoked cheese and a punnet of peaches. And a chilled bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. We pick up The Observer on the way.

It’s a clear day and we’re so high up, we can see for miles.  The boy’s eyes are as big as saucers when he sees the size of his muffuletta wedge.

Sunday, 10 June 2012

Aamat - Sweet Tangy Yellow Dal


I can’t go too long without a dal dish. The boy likes soup and this is a soupy kind of dal.

100g Toor dal, rinsed and drained
1tbsp oil
1tsp mustard seed
A pinch asafoetida
1tsp turmeric
1 onion, chopped
4 green chillies, deseeded and chopped
2 tomatoes, chopped
1tsp sugar
2tsp garam masala
Chopped coriander to garnish
Salt

Soak the dal for 1 hour. This is just long enough to listen to Radio 4’s Classic Serial with him.

Drain and pour into a heavy based pan, and just cover with water. Bring to the boil and then simmer for about 25 minutes. Check that it’s soft and then drain. Mash it lightly with a wooden spoon. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a frying pan and add the mustard seeds. They will pop. Try not to lose too many of them as they jump out of the pan. Add the asafoetida, turmeric, chillies and onion. The boy won’t help with the chopping having once sliced chillies and then touched his willy before washing his hands. He’s not taking any risks from now on.

Fry off for 5 minutes – the onions should be turning light brown.

Get the boy to put some basmati rice in the rice cooker. Just plain. Like his white T-shirt.

Add the tomatoes to the frying pan and cook for 4 minutes or until soft. Add the dal to the pan with 250ml water. Cook over a high heat, stirring until bubbles form, and then lower the heat to medium. Season with salt and add the sugar and garam masala. Simmer for a final 5 minutes.

Serve in bowls, garnished with coriander, with a side plate for a mound of rice. Place a spoonful of oily mango pickle on the rice. Alternate spoonful’s of dal with the rice. Comfort food from Maharashtra.

Saturday, 9 June 2012

Rachel (Reuben) Sandwiches


I think, when the boy gets to heaven, he will find it a never ending sandwich counter. This will make 4 sandwiches – there are only 2 of us but one will not be enough. The key ingredient is the Pastrami. Wafer thin slices from plastic supermarket packs won’t do it. Find a Deli that makes their own. That way you won’t feel that sandwiches are a compromise version of dinner.

8 slices light rye or sourdough bread
400g pastrami
12tbsp sauerkraut
8 slices gruyere

Russian Dressing
4tbsp mayonnaise
4tbsp horseradish sauce
2tbsp tomato ketchup
1tbsp grated onion

The boy has been playing hockey. With all the rain, he comes home incredibly muddy, wet, cold and hungry. Pop him into the shower and his kit into the washing machine. Carry on listening to Radio 4. Make the dressing by combining all the ingredients. The strength of the horseradish is up to you, though I don’t think you’re looking for the fieriest kind.

Spread one side of all of the bread with the dressing. Pile on the pastrami – it should be very thick. Top with well drained sauerkraut and then the gruyere. There’s something satisfying about the holes in gruyere.

The boy emerges from the shower with a white towel around his waist, oblivious to the effect he’s having on you. He’s worked up an appetite. Top the towering sandwich with the other piece of bread and butter the top and bottom.

Heat a dry frying pan and carefully fry the bottom of the first sandwich, holding it down so it stays together. When golden on the bottom, cook the other side. Hopefully the cheese will start melting. Do the same for all four sandwiches. Cut each in half vertically so they are somewhat more manageable, but feel free to stack them up so they look epic.

I’m impressed that the boy feels a squirt of English mustard would be good for dipping corners into, as we do have milder French and American mustard. We’re having cups of strong coffee and he’s talking about the almost goals, if it wasn’t for the mud. His hair is almost dry but he’s in no hurry to get dressed.

Thursday, 7 June 2012

Sichuan Pepper Prawns


This takes very little time to make but tastes amazing with the right ingredients. Get the rice cooker on while you prep everything.

2 red chillies
1tsp Sichuan peppercorns
2tsp finely chopped ginger
4 cloves garlic
6 spring onions
6tbsp groundnut oil
500g very large raw prawns, shell on

Get the boy to de-seed and finely chop the chillies, and finely chop the garlic while you toast the Sichuan peppercorns in a hot dry frying pan for a minute or so. Tip into a mortar and bash with a pestle until ground up.

Trim the spring onions and slice fairly finely.

Now for the fun. Get a wok on the burner and get the oil very hot. Throw in the prawns and cook for just a minute or so. Fish them out and drain.

Get the chillies, garlic, ginger and spring onion into the wok now and cook for a couple of minutes. Keep it all moving around. Then add the prawns back in and cook for a final couple of minutes.

Serve on rice and eat immediately. There’s no polite way to eat the prawns as they will need peeling, so get stuck in with your fingers. Get an extra bowl for the shells. We have Chinese spoons for the rice but otherwise it’s finger licking time. Yours and his.

Monday, 4 June 2012

Garden-work Gazpacho


We’re both working in the garden, trying to get it ready for Summer. We have a radio tuned to Radio 4 and a big jug of iced grape flavour Kool-Aid. Still, it’s hard work and a cold soup seems like the right thing for lunch. I made it first thing so it would have time to chill while we’re digging and hoeing.

1.25kg ripe tomatoes
3 spring onions, sliced
1 medium cucumber
1 green and one red pepper, deseeded
3 garlic cloves
4tbsp sherry vinegar
6tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt & freshly ground pepper
½  tsp cayenne

Garnish
Chopped black olives
Chopped spring onion
Chopped parsley
More freshly ground pepper
A big pinch of chilli flakes

So easy, but the freshness of the ingredients is critical. Our own tomatoes aren’t even nearly ready but we bought them on the vine from our local Turkish supermarket. The ripeness is everything so we’ve chosen them carefully.

It’s 9am. He’s drinking his coffee. I’m putting all the veg in the food processor and blending. Get it really smooth. The oil is trickled though the funnel, as is the vinegar. Season very liberally and chill. It needs at least 4 hours to settle down in the fridge. Add a little water if it’s too thick.

Chop up the garnish and mix together.

 Once the soup is cold, taste again and add more salt, pepper or vinegar if it needs it. Being chilled, it needs more seasoning than usual. Sprinkle on the garnish when you’re ready to serve it. This time we’re having it in glasses rather than bowls.

The boy is raking up cut grass. He looks so handsome in his short sleeved T-shirt. Hand him a pint-sized glass of this with a spoon. There are dozens of ways to make Gazpacho - all of them good. This is today's way.

Sunday, 3 June 2012

Fijian Beef Curry


I grew up in Fiji. Years later, on holiday in Mombasa, I had a curry lunch. My Mum told me the curry would be different to what I grew up with. Years later I’m going back to what will now seem like a strange curry. The boy loves curry so he’s happy no matter what.

400g boneless beef (not tough stewing steak)
1 medium onion, chopped
3 chillies, chopped
¼ cup oil
1tsp cumin seed
1tsp turmeric
2tbsp curry powder
4 cloves garlic, crushed
2.5cm fresh ginger, crushed
1tsp salt
1 cup water
1 medium tomato, chopped
1 large potato, peeled & cubed

The kitchen opens onto the patio. The door is open as it’s warm. The boy is still in bed. I want to make this in the morning so it rests and will taste much better when we want to eat it.

Cube the beef. Sautee the onions and chillies, until the onions are golden. Add the turmeric, cumin and curry powder. The brand and strength of curry powder has to be a personal choice. When well mixed, add the beef and let it brown all over.

Meanwhile, turn the radio on, whether he’s sleeping or not. Pound the ginger, garlic and salt together to a paste.

Add to the curry, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the water and then the tomato and potato. Top up with more water if needed. When the potato is cooked, it’s ready.

Serve with rice and mint chutney:

Mint Chutney
2 cups mint leaves
1tbsp chopped chillies, deseeded
½ cup chopped onion
1 clove garlic, chopped
1 large tomato, chopped
Salt & pepper
2tsp brown sugar

Blend until smooth. Refrigerate.

Whilst the boy would happily have curry for breakfast it will be even better this evening, once the meat has relaxed and had time to take up all the flavour. Fiji style, this would be served with slices of tomato and peeled cucumber.

Saturday, 2 June 2012

1953 Coronation Chicken


Another possible Jubilee dish. Coronation chicken is usually curry powder + mayonnaise. We’ve gone back to the original Constance Spry recipe from the actual coronation and adapted slightly.

2 chickens
Water & white wine to cover
1 carrot
A bouquet garnit
Salt
4 peppercorns

Cream of curry sauce
1tbsp oil
½ onion finely chopped
1tbsp curry powder
1tsp tomato puree
1 wineglass red wine
¾ wineglass water
1 bayleaf
Salt, sugar, a pinch pepper
A slice or two of lemon and a good squeeze of lemon juice
2tbsp apricot puree
350ml mayonnaise
3tbsp whipped cream

I have no idea where to get apricot puree so I’m substituting for 1tbsp apricot jam.

Poach the chicken in the water and wine (Constance doesn’t give a ratio – so I’m guessing water to cover and a glass of white wine. I’m also assuming chickens were smaller in the 1950s so choose modest birds ). Add the carrot, halved and the herbs and salt & pepper. Poach for 40 minutes and allow it cool in the liquid.

When cool, get the boy to pull off the skin and tear the meat from the bone and put it into a large bowl. Acknowledge he’s a boy by allowing him to pull off a few really big bits. Tell him to wash his hands.

Make the sauce. My only change is to add another 1/2 tbsp curry powder and add a 1/2tsp of chilli powder. Note there are no raisins in the original recipe!

Cook the onions in the oil, gently for 4 minutes. Add the curry powder and cook for a further 2 minutes (Add the chili powder here if you’re adding it).

Add the puree, wine, water and bay leaf. Get him to pluck one from the bay tree outside. Bring to the boil and add the salt, pepper, sugar, lemon and lemon juice. Simmer 5 to 10 mins.

Strain and cool. Slowly mix with the mayonnaise and apricot puree. Taste and adjust for seasoning and lemon juice. Let it down with more cream if needed. Give him a little forkful to try. He's been longing for one.

In 1953 this was served with a rice salad. I think, if we do decide to do this for our street party, I will do it served on crostini, with a halved grape on top to stand in for the now ubiquitous raisins.

The boy can see that this isn’t quite the same as the stuff that goes in sandwiches. I think he can tell that it’s something special.