I admit we’re making a lot of soup these days. It’s the time
of year. I have a fondness for this colonial dish from the days of the raj.
It’s adapted from an elegant Madhur Jaffrey recipe.
3 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
½ tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1tsp grated ginger
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 ½ tsp ground coriander
1tsp ground cumin
½ tsp cayenne pepper
¼ tsp turmeric
1tsp Madras curry powder
1 1/5 litres chicken stock
4tbsp oil
115g gram flour (chickpea flour)
3tbsp lemon juice
Basmati rice to serve
Cut the chicken up into small enough pieces for soup. This
means tiny. Put it in a bowl with the salt, pepper, ginger, garlic, cumin,
cayenne, turmeric and curry powder. Mix well. Put it in the fridge while we go
to work. I rarely cook with curry powder, but as this is more English than
Indian, I’m going for it.
The boy is home before me and has put some rice in the rice
cooker, along with a thick slice of lemon and a few cardamom pods. This is
because I have left a note on the kitchen table saying “cook some rice. Put a
thick slice of lemon in it and a few cardamom pods. xx”
Fry the chicken mix in the oil, scraping in all the spice
remnants from the bowl for a few minutes.
Add the flour, stirring constantly, for about two minutes.
Stir in the stock and give the bottom of the pan a good
scrape with a wooden spoon. The gram flour will have stuck to the bottom.
Simmer for 20 minutes. The boy has fished the lemon and cardamom out of the
rice and spooned it into a nice bowl. He’s dressed it with a few wafer thin red
onion rings and coriander leaves. He’s getting the idea that good food is in
the detail.
Add a little more salt to the soup if it needs it, and the
lemon juice. We have this at the kitchen table, adding a few spoonfuls of rice
to each bowl first. I have put a few tablespoons of mango chutney and hot Indian
mixed vegetable pickle on a side plate. It’s good with the rice.
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