Sunday 30 September 2012

Lemon & Rosemary Cake


I have to make a lemon cake for a charity fundraiser. I don’t have much of a sweet tooth so I was tempted by this version that has rosemary in it.

4 large eggs
¾ cup sugar
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 ½ cups plain flour
2tsp baking powder
¼ tsp salt
2 sprigs Rosemary, leaves stripped off and chopped

I’m making a double batch of this so the boy can have one of the cakes. The rosemary is from the garden – I’m picking it myself as the boy often mixes up rosemary and lavender.

Haydn’s Nelson Mass goes on the CD player.

Preheat the oven to 180. Beat the eggs in a large bowl for a minute or until frothy.  I’m using free range organic eggs because there’s no excuse not to. Add the sugar and beat until the mixture is thick and pale.

Add the lemon zest and juice and beat again.

Add in the flour, baking powder, chopped rosemary and salt and stir until your arm aches.

Suggest the boy tastes the batter to if the balance of lemon and rosemary is right. He really wants to lick the bowl but thinks it not grown up to ask. This is a way of letting him.

Pour into a loaf tin, rubbed with olive oil. Chop some more rosemary and sprinkle on top for decoration. Bake for 45 minutes.

The boy is very happy with a slice of this with his cup of tea. Because I love him I’m serving a frosting on the side. It’s made with ¾ cup icing sugar, 1tbsp yoghurt and ½ tsp lemon zest

Wednesday 26 September 2012

Tabbouleh


The boy thinks straight, white middle class people shouldn’t make Tabbouleh. I remind him we’re not straight, which stops him in his tracks. Besides, if he objects too strongly, he’s not getting any for his packed lunch for tomorrow.

1 cup couscous
1 cup weak chicken stock
1 large tomato
1 crook cucumber
1 spring onion
1 large bunch flat leaf parsley
1 small bunch mint
1 lemon
1 good glug of olive oil
Salt & pepper
1/4 tsp Baharat
1/2 tsp ground allspice


Make the couscous first. By all means use a bit of stock cube or whatever you have to hand. Pop equal amounts of couscous and water in a pan, bring it to the boil and then turn off the heat and allow it to rest for 5 minutes. Fluff it all up and let it cool.

Chop the veg up into dice. In the Middle East, all salad is chopped up this way. I guess it means every forkful has a good selection on it.

I start by tearing the parsley and mint by hand and then snipping with scissors. You want quite a lot as the salad is mainly herbs, dotted with couscous. When the said grain is cool, combine everything with the oil and lemon. I think a few grates of lemon zest would enhance it along with the salt and pepper. Add the Baharat and allspice. (Baharat is a spice mix that includes pepper, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, cardamom and nutmeg - sounds like Christmas but gives a really good bass note to stews and the like)

Give the boy a spoonful and see how he thinks it needs adjusting. Every cookbook in the last 5 years has suggested that the parsley to herb ratio should be vastly in favour of the green stuff. Time to accept this is no longer original – Tabbouleh is parsley plus other stuff. Black olives might be a good, if inauthentic, addition, as might be capers. 

Adjust the lemon juice or olive oil on the boy's advice (More lemon juice is more likely)

Parsley growing tip: Sow seeds on Good Friday as tradition has it that the parsley goes 9 times to the devil before it germinates. Seems to hold true for me.

Sunday 16 September 2012

Chicken & Lemon Rasam with Spinach Pilau rice


The boy has the beginnings of a cold. You would think he was in the final stages of pneumonia. He claims to be too weak for anything but soup, so we are having a chicken rasam. I think the spicy kick will help.

175g red lentils
1.2l chicken stock
½ tsp turmeric
100g potatoes
5 cloves garlic
3cm cube ginger, peeled
1 chicken breast, skinned
1 ¼ tsp salt
Black pepper
3tbsp oil
1tsp ea cumin, cayenne & coriander
2tbsp lemon juice

When he’s unwell the boy will happily listen to Radio 4 in bed, so it’s what I have in the bedroom. Unusually our flat layout has the bedroom just off the kitchen.

Pour the chicken stock (we’re not using home made) into a large pan, along with the lentils and turmeric. Bring to the boil and then simmer for 30 minutes with lid ajar.

Peel and dice the potatoes and add these and continue simmering for another 30 minutes. The boy shouts from the bedroom that he’s getting hungry. Tell him he has to wait, unless he’d like to nibble on a raw potato.

Using a mini processor, blend the garlic and ginger into a paste with 4 ½ tbsp. water. Get it into a paste. I do feel for the boy as our mini processor is incredibly loud. Perhaps I should have used the pestle and mortar.

Dice the chicken into 1cm pieces. Put it in a bowl and season with ¼ tsp salt and some freshly ground pepper. Toss to mix.

When the soup base is done, roughly blend – I use a stick blender as I think you can control it better. Unfortunately it means disturbing the boy’s radio listening again. Pour into a bowl and add the remaining salt.

Clean out the pan and then add the oil and the garlic ginger paste. Add the cayenne, cumin and coriander. Very gently fry it off until lightly browned. The aroma brings the boy padding into the kitchen in his pyjamas. Tell him you need about 15 minutes. You probably need less than this but manage his expectations.

Add the chicken dice and stir for 2 or 3 minutes, until they turn white. Add 250ml water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 3 minutes to cook the chicken. Pour in the lentil soup base and add the lemon juice. Taste and add more lemon juice if needed. I usually do.

Serve with Palau rice and a sharp pickle. I like to serve the pickle on the rice and then have alternate spoonful’s of soup and rice.

I considered letting him have this in bed before remembering we are currently using a white duvet!

Spinach Pilau Rice
I’m using a rice cooker, but adapt this to your usual method. Put washed Basmati rice and water in the cooker and add 1tsp turmeric, some broken cinnamon bark and 4 cardamom pods to the water. Keep the cinnamon in big pieces so it’s easy to fish them out. Grind in some fresh black pepper and a pinch of salt. Add a handful of thawed frozen spinach and mix in with the rice so the shreds distribute nicely.

Cook in the usual way. I’m adding a few drops of yellow food colouring, but only because the boy is unwell and will like it to look like it came from an Indian takeaway.

When done, remove the spices. Add a little butter, and serve in a bowl with some hot mango or lime pickle on top.

Saturday 15 September 2012

New Delhi Chicken Burgers


I’m of the opinion that minced chicken is one of the most boring things in the world. This burger with Indian spices really makes chicken mince worth buying, and the boy will never say no to a burger of any kind.

500g chicken mince
1tsp cumin seeds
100g mushrooms
1 onion, grated
2tsp grated ginger
2tsp crushed garlic
2 green chillies, finely chopped
3tbsp chopped coriander leaves
Grated zest of a lime
2stp garam masala
Salt & pepper
Vegetable oil

Some Bhangra goes on the CD player for this Asian/British fusion. Just from the music coming from the kitchen, the boy knows he’s getting something spicy. He’s expecting curry and will be delighted when he sees it’s a burger.

Dry fry the cumin seeds until they start to crackle and then grind them up with a pestle and mortar. Chop the mushrooms up very finely. It’s really not worth getting the food processor out just for this.

From then on it’s incredibly simple – put everything except the oil in a mixing bowl and combine really well. I think you have to get your hands in rather than trying to do it with a wooden spoon. It’s quite satisfying! Refrigerate for an hour so it can firm up.

Form into about 6 burgers, by rolling the mixture into balls and then flattening them out.

Fry in the oil until cooked through – probably 4 minutes each side. Let them rest for a couple of minutes while you assemble everything else you need.

Toast your buns. I’m letting the boy assemble his burger as he will have his own views on what ratios of things to use. We’re having the usual burger favourites – lettuce, sliced tomato and sliced red onion, with some Indian tomato chutney that we made last summer from our own tomatoes. And he is delighted it turned out to be burgers. When he’s well fed he gets snuggly. Good job it’s a great night for TV.

Tuesday 11 September 2012

Yu Siang Shredded Chicken


I don’t naturally think of chicken and aubergine going together, but this dish proves they do. We’re having hot days and cooler nights so I think the boy is starting to appreciate hot dinners again.

Sea salt & white pepper
1tbsp cornflour
300g skinned chicken, in strips
3tbsp oil
1tbsp shaoxing rice wine
1 aubergine cut in batons and tossed in oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2.5cm ginger, grated
1 chilli, chopped
1tbsp chilli bean paste
1 spring onion, sliced
Sauce
100ml vegetable stock (cold)
1tbsp light soy sauce
1tbsp black rice vinegar

Put the salt, pepper and cornflour in a bowl and then toss the chicken in it until it is coated. Meanwhile put some Qin music on the CD player. It’s hypnotic and relaxing, which will help. Heat a wok with 1tbsp oil and stir fry the chicken. Keep it moving as the flour will want to stick. After a minute, add the rice wine and cook for another 2 minutes, then set aside.

Get the boy to make some plain basmati rice in the rice cooker. Sometimes I like to add a large lemon wedge to the rice water. This is one of those times.

Clean out the wok with kitchen paper and add another tbsp. of oil. Tell the boy it’s like a 747 being turned around for another flight even though it’s just landed. He looks cynical. Can't blame him. It's a dumb analogy. Add the aubergine and give it about 5 mins to cook through. Again keep turning it. Add a little water from time to time to create steam and help it along. Set aside.

Get the 747 ready for its third take off with the last spoonful of oil and cook the garlic, ginger, and chilli bean paste, just cooking for a few seconds before you add the aubergine back in. Add the sauce ingredients and when they start to bubble add the chicken back in. Once the sauce is thickened, tip in the spring onions.

The boy has fished out the Chinese bowls and chopsticks (Chomp Sticks he calls them) and the tiny teacups for Jasmine Tea. I think the elegance of the dish deserves the tea.

Sunday 9 September 2012

Gin & Tonic Sorbet


I had a gin and  tonic sorbet for dessert at Hawksmoor and have declared it my favourite ever. I have been raving about it and so naturally, the boy wants some too.

400g caster sugar
400ml tonic water
4tbsp gin
Zest and juice of a lime
Zest of a lemon and the juice of half
1 egg white

I use an ice cream maker as they are quite cheap and makes this very simple. The bowl just lives in the freezer when we’re not using it, so it’s always ready to go. Ahead of time make a sugar syrup – put your sugar in a small pan with 400ml water and heat until the sugar has completely dissolved. Boil for 1 minute and cool it down again. Pour the syrup in a large bowl with the tonic water and let it cool in the fridge for an hour. With all the sugar in the syrup there is little virtue in using slimline tonic!

The boy thinks this is a stingy amount of gin, but any more and it won’t freeze. Besides we only want the flavour. That said don’t use one of the export strength gins either.

Don’t let the boy separate the egg – he will need at least 3 eggs before he gets one done properly.

Once the liquid is cool, pour into the ice cream maker along with the citrus. Whisk the egg white until frothy and pour that in too. Let the ice cream maker do its stuff.

It’s lovely soft melty stuff so eat straight away (easy) or freeze in a container for later (harder to do)

Tuesday 4 September 2012

Spicy Chicken Wings


This is the perfect dish for DVD night. The boy got caught in a rain shower on the way home and is soaked. He doesn’t think this is as funny as I do. The chicken will cheer him up.

500g chicken wings
Juice of 1 lemon
1tsp paprika
2tsp chilli flakes
Salt & pepper
A good glug of olive oil
2 waxy potatoes
Dried thyme

If you can find Turkish chilli flakes, use them. They’re called Pul Biber and are a dark red colour. The flakes are rubbed in olive oil and are not as hot as regular chilli flakes. Marinade the chicken wings in the oil, lemon juice, paprika, chilli and salt and pepper for as long as you can.

When you’re ready, peel the potatoes and chop them into 2cm cubes. Put them into a baking tray and sprinkle with a little more olive oil and  some dried thyme. Place the chicken wings on top.

Get the oven to 200 and bake for 10 minutes. Pull the tray out and loosen any potatoes that have decided to stick to the bottom. Lower the heat to 180 and cook for another 20 minutes. Check everything is cooked and crispy – if not give it a bit longer.

Sweetly the boy has changed into pyjamas. It’s movie night after all. This is finger food so we’re serving with garlic bread and Little Gem lettuce dressed with mustard vinaigrette; the leaves left whole so they can be picked up.

Monday 3 September 2012

Spanish Tomato Salad


There are many tomato salad recipes, mostly Italian. This one is Spanish. Our tomatoes came from Borough Market and are a mix of red and yellow ones. The boy thinks yellow tomatoes might not be not quite ready. Ignore him and go for as any unusual varieties as you can find. At this time of year, tomatoes won't be any better so enjoy them at their best.

500g ripe red and yellow tomatoes
½  onion, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1tsp smoked paprika
4tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2tbsp red wine vinegar
Flaky sea salt & freshly ground pepper
1 sprig oregano, leaves only

Put Tosca on the CD player. Slice the tomatoes and arrange on a serving plate. Sprinkle the onions and garlic over, followed by the paprika. Toss gently.

Whisk the oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and oregano. Pour over and leave to allow the flavours to develop for 5 minutes.

Serve on the patio with wrinkly black olives and fresh mozzarella dressed with olive oil and a few torn basil leaves. Some rustic bread to dip in olive oil and balsamic vinegar would be good and  a chilled bottle of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc won’t hurt.

Sunday 2 September 2012

Covent Garden Russian Soup


The boy has a hangover and didn’t get up until midday. He’ll want either a fried English breakfast or something very delicate. This time it’s the latter. Not sure how Russian it is but I like to imagine Russian boys with fine brown hair enjoying it.

50g butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
225g potatoes, peeled and sliced
110g parsnips, peeled and sliced
110g carrots sliced
50g cabbage, finely sliced
2tbsp finely chopped flat leaf parsley
1/2tsp dried mixed herbs
A little freshly grated nutmeg
1.2 litres vegetable stock
Salt & pepper

This is from the New Covent Garden Soup Company, so we’re in good hands. I like peeling and chopping vegetables and am enjoying Radio 4 while the boy groans quietly to himself. I can’t help being slightly louder than usual.

When it’s all prepped, cook the vegetables in the butter for 5 minutes, trying not to colour anything too much. You’re softening them, rather than browning them. Add the parsley and mixed herbs. No idea what mixed herbs they use in Russia but we’re using an Italian herb mix. Herbes de Provence would be good. Grate in a little fresh nutmeg.

Add the stock. We’re using Marigold Swiss Bouillon powder. If you’re using a cube, consider making it a little weaker than the directions on the box. Simmer gently for 30 minutes.

Let it cool a little and pulse with a stick blender. I only give it a few short bursts as I like the texture of the vegetables, rather than a smooth puree but it’s up to you.

The boy attacks it with relish. He looks young and fragile at the table in his bathrobe, and I can’t resist telling him I love him. Making someone soup is the best way of showing that you love them.