Pizza Express Italian Salad Dressing

These days the recipe is a closely guarded secret but I found the original version in a 1976 copy of The Pizza Express Cookbook. This isn't what you get in the restaurants these days but it's clear that this is what it evolved from.

1 egg yolk

1 tsp sugar

½ tsp salt

Pinch black pepper

1 tsp French or German mustard

1 tsp brandy

½ tsp Worcestershire sauce

150ml olive oil

75ml white wine vinegar

Oregano

Parsley

This is as subtle and secret as Beethoven's Symphony no, 8 - his 'Little Symphony'. I suggest you listen to this as you make it. Both are lovely.

For me, Lea & Perrins is the only Worcestershire sauce. I'm less fussy about the mustard - many Polish brands are mild and sweet and would be perfect. As you're having raw egg, it must be fresh and organic free range. The recipe doesn't say how much oregano or parsley. I suggest a tablespoon of parsley and half as much of oregano. Both chopped as finely as you can.

Beat the egg yolk until creamy and then beat in the sugar, salt, pepper, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and brandy. Keep beating until it thickens.

Add the oil, slowly at first. Then add the vinegar. Get the boy to taste it and add more sugar or salt if he thinks it needs it. His giving advice will help him think he had a part in getting it just right. And so he did. He thinks the Beethoven CD is Haydn, which is interesting. The 8th Symphony is like Beethoven on holiday.

Now get him to think about the consistency. If it’s too oily, or tastes too much of vinegar, add a little lemon juice. If he thinks it’s too thick, add a little water. He's really enjoying you taking his wisdom into account.

Once he’s happy, add the oregano and finely chopped parsley.

At Pizza Express, salad is mixed leaves, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, red onion and a few black olives. I think radishes have their place too.