Monday, 5 May 2014

English Salad Dressing

I’m pretty pleased to have found this recipe – a British version of French dressing. The boy gets a salad with most meals so it’s nice to rotate the dressing as well as the salad ingredients.

Rapeseed oil
Grated horseradish
English mustard
White wine vinegar

The boy and I like our salad dressing sharp so we have it almost one to one, with perhaps a tablespoon more oil than vinegar. Rapeseed oil is wonderful stuff – much richer than olive oil. My suggestion is:

12tbsp rapeseed oil
9 tbsp white wine vinegar
1tsp mustard
1tsp horseradish.

And of course salt and pepper. The horseradish needs to be fresh – not the creamed stuff that comes in jars. We grow ours in the garden and preserve it in vinegar through the winter.

The boy has made what he calls an English salad to have with it: little gem lettuce, ripe tomatoes and radishes. It’s the sort of salad you would have had in the 50s but the spicy dressing livens it up no end. Personally I can't wait to have it with avocado, mozzarella and tomato.

Sunday, 4 May 2014

Szechuan Cauliflower

This was one of my Mum’s favourite Chinese dishes – we only ever found it at the Pagoda restaurant in Nairobi. It has taken me 20 years to track down the recipe.

The Sauce
2tbsp oil
1tbsp ginger paste
1 green chilli, chopped
I stick celery finely chopped
2tbsp chilli sauce
2tbsp soy sauce
1tbsp vinegar
2tbsp tomato puree
2tbsp corn flour
1/2tbsp sugar
½ cup water

Cauliflower

A medium cauliflower cut into 20 pieces
1/3 cup plain flour
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper
½ cup water
2 cups oil

The Pagoda served this cauliflower whole, though I’m so grateful for this recipe that I’m following it religiously.

I have the Yellow River  Concerto on the CD player to get the mood right. Start with the sauce. Slake the corn flour in the water. Heat the oil in a wok and fry off the ginger paste. Add the chilli and celery and fry for a minute.

Once soft, add the vinegar, sugar and tomato puree. The sauce should be a vivid orange.

Set it aside, as you will thicken it later.

Make a batter from the corn flour, salt and water. Mix until smooth. The boy finds a whisk and bowl thrust into his hands for this job.

Heat the oil to medium hot. Coat the oil in the batter and deep fry for 4 minutes. Turn them occasionally with a slotted spoon until golden brown.

Finish the sauce – add corn flour until thick and syrupy. Add water if it goes too far.


Plate up the cauliflower and pour on the sauce. Give it more than it looks like it needs as the rice or noodles you serve it with will mop plenty up.

Saturday, 3 May 2014

Jalapenorita

This recipe was tweeted by Tabasco, so it is shamelessly stolen. I love Margaritas and Dirty Martinis so I have been really keen to try this.

½ a lime
Coarse sea salt
400ml gold tequila
100ml Grand Marnier
1tsp Green Tabasco

Dampen the rim of a glass with a piece of lime and dip it into a saucer of salt a few times until the rim is nice and crusty. We have some Martini glasses that my brother persuaded me to buy from Ikea ages ago. They turned out to be a good investment.

Squeeze the lime into a cocktail shaker. It needs to be nice ripe juicy one which can be a challenge.

I have a couple of cocktail shakers but my favourite is etched with the Martini logo which I think is from the 70s. Pour in everything else and add some ice and strain into the glass, being careful to preserve the salty rim. We have had to hunt the ingredients down. Our tequila is silver, so that needed replacing, and we don’t have Grand Marnier, though we do have Cointreau which will do just as well. Hardest to track down was the green Tabasco, though Waitrose do stock it. The boy loves it for dipping chips in. We stock up when we find it. I feel I want to try a really good tequila but Jose Cuervo is all I can find.I can't bring myself to buy the brand that has a plastic sombrero as a bottle top.


It’s cocktail hour. We have a Josephine Baker CD on but are mostly ignoring it. Dipping tortilla chips into some very hot tomato salsa. I think the tartness of tomato goes with this; the boy just likes salty snacks.

Sunday, 27 April 2014

Penne with Tomato & Balsamic

This isn’t a quick supper though it is easy. It does depend on good Balsamic vinegar and decent tinned tomatoes.

350g dried penne pasta
400g tinned tomatoes
4tbsp Balsamic vinegar
2 cloves garlic, sliced
180g salted butter, cut into small pieces
100g grated parmesan
 Extra virgin olive oil
3tbsp Basil leaves

Understandably the boy is not at all convinced by this. Telling him it comes with salad and garlic bread helps.

Make the sauce first. Warm the oil and cook the garlic. Drain the tomatoes – if they are really good, not much water will come out. Add them to the pan and crush them with a fork. Simmer slowly for 20 minutes. You’re looking for a thick sauce.  Add the Basil leaves.

Let he boy have a taste. He thinks it needs a good bit of salt and pepper.

Cook the penne until al-dente. Drain and put it back in the same pan. Lower the heat and add the butter. Stir it through on a low heat and add the vinegar .This must be really good stuff unless you enjoy sour pasta.

Add half the parmesan and stir through.

Pour in the sauce. Stir again and sprinkle the rest of the parmesan on top.


Serve with garlic bread and a salad of lettuce, radishes, tomatoes and Kalamata olives.

Luckily the boy rarely complains about carbs.

Saturday, 26 April 2014

Tabasco Salt

I'm rather excited about this simple recipe. The boy is less enthusiastic until I mention frying up a big batch of chips to sprinkle it on.

100g flaky Maldon sea salt
A few hefty shakes of Tabasco

That's it. Just pour the salt in the bowl and shake on the Tabasco. It's just the regular red kind. The boy likes to dip chips (French Fries) in the green kind but this will give them a similar kick.

Heat the oven to low - 100 degrees. Stir the salt and Tabasco well and spread on a baking sheet. I'm putting down some greaseproof paper first. Dry it in the oven for 30 minutes.

Let it cool and store in a screwtop jar, for chips, roasted vegetables, anything.

Visiting Avery Island, where they make Tabasco is on my bucket list. I couldn't do without it.

Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Supreme Burgers

This is a lovely burger suggestion from Nigel Slater. It's easy to make your own burgers though best to make them at least an hour or two in advance so they can firm up in the fridge. 

400g minced (ground) beef
1 pickled gherkin
a sprinkle of sesame seeds
a little ketchup
Salt & pepper
Hot French mustard

We don't get measurements here but I'm thinking two teaspoons each of sesame seeds, ketchup and mustard. I thought most French mustard was quite mild. The stuff we have certainly is, so I need to look into this. I am using some chipotle ketchup that I made last year but the regular stuff will still be good. The gherkin needs to be medium chopped. If they are small, use two. Add salt & pepper. Mix well - i.e. get your hands in and give it a good squidge.

Shape into burgers and chill down. Fry them in light olive oil. The better quality your beef, the better these will be. The cheap stuff will just spit water at you. Serve in ciabatta rolls. I think a dollop of chilli infused mayo on top would work nicely.

The boy wants to try these barbecued. Me too.

Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Mexican Pork Scratchings

The boy loves these with a bowl of Guacamole and a couple of bottles of Mexican beer. I would never have thought of pork scratchings as Mexican, but apparently it’s very popular there. Pork rind is incredibly cheap and some supermarkets sell it on its own.

A piece of pork skin (approx. 600g)
1 heaped teaspoon black peppercorns
1tsp allspice berries
1tsp fennel seeds
1tsp finely chopped sage leaves
Zest of 1 orange
2 heaped tbsp. sea salt

Grind the dry spices together (bash in a pestle & mortar or use a coffee grinder) and mix well with the orange zest and sage. Set aside.

Bring a pan of water to the boil and cut the pork rind into pieces about the size of a credit card. Drop into the boiling water and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove and drain.

Rub the spice mix into the skin side and then dry it out in the fridge for about four hours, ideally on a rack.

Get the oven to its hottest and then spread the pork rinds out on baking trays in a single layer. Give it 10 minutes at this heat. The boy is getting bored now so give him a beer with a wedge of lime in the neck. Then turn the heat down to 170/Gas 3, and cook for anywhere between 30 and 90 minutes. Check it from time to time – it should be golden and puffed up, rather than burned.

If you’re smart, drain the fat off every half an hour and use for frying other things during the week.


The boy is mellow from a couple of beers but is getting the munchies. Make up the Guacamole (recipe is here under December 2011). Serve up to one happy boy. He’s doing the world’s worst Mexican accent.

Thursday, 10 April 2014

Chicken with Grapes

I think the boy will like this as it’s got a sweet kick. It’s Italian. I’ve put a Baroque Italian CD on to get the mood right.

50g butter
Olive oil
4 chicken quarters
2 sprigs rosemary
4 whole cloves garlic
150ml vin santo or marsala – sweet wine at a pinch
500g seedless white grapes
Salt & pepper

I’m getting the boy to joint the chicken with a heavy knife, as I’ve never been any good at this. You want to separate the leg from the breast.

In a really large pan or flame proof casserole, melt the butter with some olive oil. The oil will stop the butter burning. Add the chicken and rosemary.

Brown the chicken, turning once or twice. Season.

Pour in the wine and add the garlic and cook, covered for 15 mins. Remove the breasts. (check they are cooked through with a skewer).

Give the legs another 15 minutes, but take the lid off so the sauce has chance to thicken.

In a skillet, gently soften the grapes in a little more olive oil, turning them often.

When the legs are done, put the breasts back in and add the grapes and heat everything through together. Check the seasoning. I assume it wil need plenty to cut through the sweetness of the wine and grapes.


Serve with rice or baby new potatoes, and perhaps some baby carrots. I’m in a minority as I’m not usually a big fan of chicken but I like it if it’s interesting. The boy loves it as it’s sweet. As is he.

Sunday, 30 March 2014

Root Veg & Peanut Stew

I love this Nigel Slater recipe as it makes winter root veg seem light instead of stodgy. The boy loves the croutes, which are a kind of garlic bread I suppose. Also I never know what to do with Jerusalem Artichokes so this is a good call.

200g carrots
300g parsnips
200g swede
200g Jerusalem artichokes
300g celeriac
2tbsp oil
1l chicken stock
200g roast salted peanuts

The peanuts are the oily kind, without skin. Set the oven to 200/Gas 6. Put Wagner’s Parsifal on and start peeling the veg. Chop into fairly large pieces, but small enough to sit in the bowl of a spoon.

Tip into a roasting tin and pour over the oil. Add some salt and pepper. I think some Thyme wouldn’t hurt. Toss well so everything is covered in the seasoned oily mix. Roast for 40 minutes. The vegetables should be soft and taken on a golden colour.

Pour the stock into a large pan and bring to the boil. Meanwhile get the boy to grind 2/3 of the peanuts to a powder in a pestle and mortar. Accept that he will moan. They may well end up quite a pasty powder, depending on how oily they might be. Whisk this into the hot stock.

Once the veg are cooked (Act 3 of Parsifal?) lift from the roasting tin and add to the stock. Don’t pour as you don’t want the oil. Add the whole peanuts and simmer for 25 minutes. This makes a very liquid stew so the crunchy croute make all the difference.

8 thick slices of baguette
3 preserved lemons
2 handfuls parsley
1handful coriander
3tbsp olive oil

We made preserved lemons last year. Cut out the flesh as you only need the peel. We are actually only using one lemon, as shop bought ones are usually tiny. It goes into the food processor with the parsley, coriander and oil. Add some salt and pepper. Ensure the boy’s love by cutting the baguette on long diagonals so you get really big slices.

Lightly toast the baguette slices and spread some of this paste on. Ladle the veg stew into bowls and serve with the toast. Give the boy the toast first to tempt him. This is a rich broth with big chunks to spear pieces from.

Saturday, 15 March 2014

Pea Soup with Ricotta & Cucumber

The boy is proving a master at making nice soups. It’s been a lovely warm day and this is the freshest soup I can imagine.

30g butter
2 shallots finely chopped
2 sticks celery, finely chopped
1kg fresh shelled peas
2tbsp single cream
Flaky sea salt

Garnish
About 10cm peeled, diced cucumber
200g fresh ricotta
Extra virgin olive oil
1tbsp finely chopped parsley

The boy melts the butter and softens the shallots and celery slowly. We have both been shelling the peas and these go in but just to turn them over in the butter. Add half a litre of water. This is so fresh tasting, it doesn’t need stock.

The original recipe suggests no pepper, but I think a shake of white pepper would be good. Simmer for 15 minutes and then pass through the finest blade of a mouli (or blend then sieve).

Reheat and stir in the cream and season with the salt. The boy is expert at how much this needs.

Serve in soup bowls with a good spoonful of the cucumber on top, along with the ricotta, parsley and  a drizzle of olive oil. It’s so green it must be good for you.


Serve with hot buttered sourdough toast.